This Autumn sees the launch of Steffie Christiaens' first eponymous womenswear line. Having worked for Balenciaga and Maison Martin Margiela, Christiaens has a keen eye for the tailored avant-garde.
Rich in cobalt blue, graphites and black, the clothing was structured and architectural. Christiaen has a delicate touch when it comes to playing with proportion and colour blocking. Carefully juxtaposing grey hues to deep blues the block toned tights against structured cocktail dresses, jackets and skirts created a cohesive look. The separates kept the collection contemporary, like the high waisted trousers with wrapped waists and the trouser suits with their ash and black tones. Each item was cut with the female form in mind - showing strength and individuality with unexpected twists and decadent fabric. Bulbous rings and unexpected flairs of fabric referenced Rei Kawakubo early collections. Deconstructing the female form with exaggerated hips and peplums a few numbers were very experimental.
Using leather and exotic crocodile skin against the architectural aesthetic and exposed zips was very modern. Shape was important, especially in jackets - high necks and skinny sleeves.
By Lucy Morris