Tuesday, 28 September 2010
IDOL has been huge fans of Wolf and Badger since we interviewed them during the early stages of their launch this year. Their support for emerging talent mirrors our own ethos and so we are always eager to find out what they have been getting up to and this Fashion Week they didn't disappoint.
Amongst the chaos that reigned in those few days Wolf and Badger held an awards ceremony at the prestigious Hospital Club in Covent Garden. The night was fuelled with emerging talent, live music and DJ sets, contemporary art performances by Nathalie Levi and of course, cocktails. There are 3 categories in the awards: Jewellery, Fashion and Products and one candidate of each category wins the opportunity to have their collections displayed in Wolf and badger for 3 months, whilst all short-listed entrants had their work displayed in The Hospital during the London Design Festival.
IDOL would like to congratulate the winners, Mayuko Yamamura - Jewellery, Domingo Rodriguez-Fashion and Victoria Delany - Products and we look forward to seeing their collections in Wolf and Badger.
Wednesday, 22 September 2010
I have always been a huge fan of the fashion label Warehouse. The brand is notoriously known for their easy to wear designs for the everyday woman as well as designing clothing for the nightly glamour puss. The Warehouse clientele are stylish, sexy and confident; women who love the edgy yet clean look. I could not
wait a second longer to get to Somerset House to see the new fashion student that they have collaborated with –Daisy Craver. Daisy is very talented, her collection is chic and directional and her prints are unique and interesting. Daisy’s theme for her collection came from the ‘Modern Worrier Woman’, her inspiration was ancient female warriors such as Boudicca and Arachidamia. Her ideology is to make woman feel empowered and sexy (and it has worked). I know that Daisy’s collection has been flying out of the shops, I for one am on my way right now to purchase the studded leggings and the leather biker jacket – to be honest I really love all of it.
There was a sense of wholesomeness in the air on Sunday 19th September, the Pope
was touring, meeting and greeting fans, people camped overnight to catch a glimpse of him, whilst that was going on I was rushing to my first morning show – Charlie le Mindu (which has be the most talked about show of the season so far).
Charlie started out as a hairdresser at a very young age, he has always loved the concept of a glamorous and eccentric lifestyle and today’s show was exactly that. The pink pony skin two pieces was the only wearable outfits (unless you’re happy to walk round naked) -the rest of the show was completely theatrical and IDOL loved it. Some of the models wore full length dress made from human hair and whilst others wore nothing. And when I say nothing I mean they wore the same as I do, when I shower. It is shows like this that put London Fashion Week one step ahead of the others (Milan, Paris & New York). In those fashion cities this type of show would have been completely misunderstood but here it fitted right in. The show was completely scandalous and thank goodness, so far this Fashion Week was lacking spirit and Charlie put the individuality back into London Fashion Week. This was the type of fashion show that would make Lady Gaga blush.
It is clear that in the four years Osman Yousefzada has been showing at London Fashion Week, this has been his best and most developed so far. The designer, famed for his beautifully sophisticated tailoring and silhouettes did not disappoint crowds at the BFC fashion space on Saturday afternoon.
This SS11 collection felt like a chic take on the sport luxe trend that was seen making a massive appearance in New York last week. Brown woven dresses with asymmetric hemlines and boat neck styles nod to new form of relaxed evening wear that also makes a fine transition into uptown day time styling.
As the gradual hints of yellow and coral hues injected life into the show, it is clear block colouring is a key SS11 trend where Osman is concerned. A play on lengths and texture continues forward from this season but in a more refined and delicate way with a combination of patent fabrics juxtaposed and natural fibres such as cotton or linen paired with a sophisticated black evening trouser.
One green flapper style dress sparked a frenzy of light bulbs flashing with its loosely fitting, but still elegantly cut, neck line leading down into two perfectly pleated tiers drawing attention to a fantastic black ankle boot. This was followed by an equally delectable splash of yellow in the form of another well cut dress and bellowing gathered skirt.
Yousefzada sharpened his signature knack for giving straightforward-looking clothes a layer of interest with the asymmetrical denim sheath dress that leads the eye to a fantastically cut neckline and faint lines running horizontally in the fabric making the models appear another two foot taller that their already towering frames.
The fabulous fusion of camel tunics and chic black evening trousers was a look that is sure to be snapped up by buyers and fashionistas alike. The curved hemline’s and subtle slits of the pieces allowed the camel trend to take on a more sensual and feminine look as we move into the next phase of our fashion calendar.
A stunning floor sweeping yellow dress rounded things up nicely as the finally of the show approached. The fabric clung and draped in all the right places, with the high neck line perfectly balancing the bare arms and figure hugging composition. As the hemline kicked out the model appeared to glide across the runway and a hint of black wedge peep toe ankle boot could just be seen poking through.
Sunday, 19 September 2010
Today seemed too have lasted a life time, taxi’s here, queuing there, models falling like dominos; it was a fashionably mental (and I loved it). My morning started with my first fashion show at 9.30am, Bernard Chandran. His collection consisted of metallic fabrics, some with embellishment, easy to wear shapes with nipped in waists, soft dramatic shoulder details. This being the plus side, the down side being that several of the models could not walk on the run way, some fell (badly) -so badly in fact that they did not come out for the final walk. This added drama was a distraction throughout the whole presentation despite the collection being fabulous.
I could only think of one salvation – Craig Lawrence. I have been a lover of his work for the past two seasons, it is simply stunning. There are very few new designers that I would place on the same platform as McQueen but Craig is one of them. For someone who is considered a young designer he is exceptionally talented. Instead of a crammed tight fashion show full of people scrambling for seats Craig decided to take a modern approach – a presentation, in a beautify lit room, with a balcony serving Bloody Mary’s - delicious. The clothes have his signature trade mark – lots of hand detailed work, using the colour pallet of white and khaki, based on the ideology of mermaids & the seductive mythology of ancient Greece. The models were chic and elegant and moved gracefully trying to please everyone with a camera; the presentation was a complete success. If you can’t quite sum up my enthusiasm I’ll put it to you like this, if I was an addict Craig Lawrence would be my fix.
(Pictures by Simone La-Rose)
The Emilio de la Morena show was taking place at the Lexington Garage, Brewer Street the invite said. And what is funny I didn’t question it until I was standing outside a car park with a load of super fashionista’s. We all marched in (once given the all clear by the lady with the guest list and the oversize Chanel bag) climbed four or five flights of stairs to a large open space room and what was strange about this room was that you didn’t feel that you were in a car park at all, this space had large windows and as it was a bright day the sunlight complemented everybody. The music started and the show began. The models walked as if they all owned those Charlotte Olympia shoes, the dress flowed beautifully and the colour pallet was to die for, an ice cream sorbet, mint greens, honey yellows, soft corals, power blues all mixed in the most elegant way. The collection had something for everybody, it was by far the most beautiful collection I have seen from Emilio which of course I am really happy about – the down side is that I now have to decide which piece I’m going to purchase, decisions decisions.
As soon as the third look hit the runway I completely understood the Charles Anastase show- it was good French girl gone bad, just like that, the mood of the show changed, the music which was by Juan Cho Sanguino became more dramatic. The main print for the show which matched the invite was a soft collage of pastel colours, some pieces had floral others were solid block colours, some of the models wore large yet soft ruffle necklines, the stage had plant pots and the show gave a hint of metallic. Soft and romantic, with light weight fabrics this easy to wear collection is a must have for most women next summer.
Running into Mrs. Burstein (owner of Browns) is always a pleasure, she is by far the ultimate fashionista, and so notorious in fact John Galliano requested her presence back stage at the Fashion Fringe show. Galliano was first discovered by Mrs B. (this is her fashion nickname) he owes most of his success to her and besides business they are dear friends. The Fashion Fringe show was the best way to end the night, an underground room full of with fashion elite were all present to witness who will be crowned by John Galliano as this year’s winner. The concept of Fashion Fringe was the brain child of Colin McDowell MBE (the creative director) and IMG Fashion. Each finalist is given an in-depth two month long introduction, during which advisors from fashion and lifestyle industry consult, inform and coach new designers to be stainable within the business element, but let’s not forget the final three designers will receive a budget to showcase their collection. One designer is then selected and supported for their first two fundamental years of running a business. This year’s three finalists were Alice Palmer, Corrie Nielsen and Jade Kang. Each designer (in my opinion) deserved to win each collection just as fabulous as the last. After the show the reception area on the ground floor held a party; cocktails flowed and so did a selection of food from Wagamama. Soon after that, a rush of people came from downstairs (John Galliano was in the centre) and he announced the winner – Corrie Nielsen.
Pictures by Adam Richardson
From Holly Fulton, David Koma, Hannah Marshall, Bora Aksu, Felder Felder, Issa, Emilio de la Morena (I’m not name dropping...honest) Roksanda, Osman, Krystof Strozyna, Charles Anastase, Bernard Chandran to Charlie le Mindu – to name a few, I finally received my LFW invites after the agony of waiting. So without further ado, let the shows commence...
Bora Aksu was my first show, front row centre seat, (I’m not showing off...honest). I really liked this show, I enjoy seeing new designers develop, watching their fashion skills evolve, it is the most rewarding fashion feeling. During a lazy summer afternoon Borka discovered a colony of ants marching in and out of a cracked wall, together their shapes and patterns formed and so did his inspiration for his SS11 collection. Looking closer he realised that the ants’ body echoed the curvaceous silhouette of the 1950’s. Clinched waistlines with a dominate bust and bottom, and just like that creativity flew through his mind to bring us Spring/Summer 2011 collection Ants & Corsets. The fabrics were soft and welcoming, there was shaped skirts and dresses with dramatic yet tasteful ruffles accompanied by a palette of navy, metallics and reds mixed with soft flesh tones and striking detail. When I left this show there was at least 3 pieces that I now need to purchase, thanks to Borka, most fashionista’s will want to be ants next summer. An amazing show, I am so glad it was my first for LFW SS11.
My next stop was Felder Felder, followed immediately by Hannah Marshall. The queue was a nightmare, it seemed like every kid with a blackberry was in line, but I managed to sneak through the back door thanks to a much appreciated acquaintance.
The inspiration behind the Felder Felder show was rebellion – which was obvious due to the music being played ‘Born to be Wild’. The downtown girl fascinated by the free spirit era of Easy Rider. A fabulous mixture of rich blues, hot pinks and the predictable black, the ruffled skirt was by far my favourite (another item I might have to purchase). Just like it should be, as the designer/s mature so does their fashion collection, this was by far the best I have seen from Felder Felder – these two sisters will soon be unstoppable.
I have been a fan of Hannah’s for a while. For me, Hannah designs clothes for women who are empowered, for a woman who knows their own mind. Hannah is incredibly creative, and seems to enjoy her talent with great ease which is quite rare in the world of luxury fashion. Her show started off with a short but stimulating film by Rankin and her collection consisted of clean lines, super sheer chiffons and directional pleated details with a minimal balance. The colour black will always dominate Hannah’s palette but you don’t hear anyone complaining, this shade adds drama as well as sophistication. Narrow skirts, off the shoulder dresses, jackets that were soft and long in the body were simply gorgeous whilst the long trench coat is a must have!